Goldfinches can be very picky birds. If the feed is the least bit stale or damp, they will leave it alone. It is recommended that you shake your feeder from time to time, or fill the feeder from the bottom once a week, then fill it from the top the following week. Finch feeders have very small ports that can get plugged up, or moisture can get in there to make the feed go rancid or moldy.
We are not exactly sure why, but we do offer an alterative feed that will keep the birds coming to your finch feeder. If you offer a mix that has fine sunflower chips, or millet, in it as well as Nyjer seed, the finches and chickadees will still come for that reason.
Traditional Safflower has a hard white outer shell that the birds will crack apart to eat. Nutra-Safflower is a hybrid, which is higher in oil, protein, and fat (which birds convert to energy). The Nutra- Safflower is typically brown or rust colored, but not to be confused with a low quality, stained traditional safflower. It has a thin outer hull which means less mess at your feeders and is easier for the birds to digest.
Yes, there are certain times of the year that migrating, and bug eating birds will stop for a drink and a bath, but might not eat seed from your feeders. Therefore, more birds for your enjoyment! It takes more energy for small birds to eat snow and convert to water than to stay alive.
First, use a squirrel baffle (If raccoons are a problem also, buy a raccoon baffle, which doubles as a squirrel baffle).
Second option; buy only squirrel proof feeders that shut off the ports to the feed. Also keep all bird feeders 10-12’ away from trees, decks, and other launch pads.
It can take some time- up to a couple weeks- for them to find it. If you feed them, they will come!
No, bird’s feet do not have sweat glands to make that happen. Some perches have a rubber coating that will eventually wear off or fall off, but that does not affect the birds’ willingness to come to your feeder.
One reason is that they could be fleeing a predator. Hawks and falcons are usually the culprits. Secondly, the bird, usually a male, is seeing himself in the reflection and thinks it is an intruder coming into his territory. Therefore he has to defend his feeder and mate, so he “fights” them off.
First, purchase a quality feeder, preferably one with a warranty or guarantee. Secondly, quality bird feed. Not all bird feed is created equal, so expect to pay a little more for the cleaner, high end, top shelf bird feed. Third, might be a good idea to get a bird book to easily identify birds. Lastly, consider a pair of binoculars. The prices can vary a lot, depending on style and clarity.
While some feeders are multi-purpose, you should determine which birds are in your region, which birds you want to attract, and then buy a feeder on that basis. Goldfinches require a different feeder than Cardinals; woodpeckers are attracted to different feeders than Blue jays, etc.
Ideally, the best place to keep it is in your freezer or fridge. Otherwise in a metal, airtight, sealed container. Raccoons and squirrels can chew through plastic or wood. If the container does not have a tightly sealed lid, small insects and moths will gather.
98% is American grown; some specialty seeds are sourced from overseas.
While some grains command a non-GMO premium because of the demand for it, many do not. In some instances, we must pay more freight to bring it in to our facility. When you take into account the benefits of feeding uncontaminated, more nutritious feed what price do you put on good health? Our customers tell us of less breeding problems, stronger and more robust young ones, less vet calls, less nervousness and agitation (more content), better feathering in birds and better hair coats of larger animals. Plus with home-raised meat on the table, the peace of mind that it is clean and healthy food and not adulterated with residual chemicals. Our founder always stated: “Good feed doesn’t cost more, it pays!”
Diatomaceous Earth, Redmond Conditioner, Live Earth Humates, Kelp, Redmond Salt, and Wheat Berries.
Cooked Bone Meal, pure Blood Meal, Corn Gluten Meal, Cottonseed Meal, Pure Cane Molasses, Soft Rock Phosphate 0-3-0 Fertilizer, Gypsum, Huma Cal, Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0-24s Fertilizer, Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0-19Ca Fertilizer, Sulfate of Potash 0-0-50 Fertilizer.
Cottonseed Hulls, Whole Fuzzy Cottonseed, Dried Beet Pulp, Steam Rolled Corn, Steam Rolled Barley, Linseed Meal(Expeller Process), Roasted Soybeans, Extruded Soybean Meal, Wheat Bran, Dried Kelp, KayDee Kaydets Mineral 15%.
We recommend you keep feed in a COOL and DRY place. This can be in a wood or metal container. Keep in away from HEAT!!! That will destroy the feed very fast. Warm and stale air is a bad combination for any kind of feed. Wild life can detect when grains have started to spoil.